Fear and Loathing in Los Andes.

Jirishanca (6094m) SE Face - Cordillera Huayhuash Peru. RAB sponsored climber Al Powell has succeeded on a major unclimbed line on the spectacular and dangerous Jirishanca in Peru. After an attempt in 2002 ended in a dramatic retreat a second expedition in 2003 was successful, at a time when international interest was focussed on the face. Al has provided us with dramatic photos from the ascent and an account of the climb itself can be read in Summit 31, the magazine of the BMC, online at www.thebmc.co.uk/services/summit/backissues30on.htm

 

 

Al and Nick set off on this multiday, steep and committing ice route at high altitude with only 35 litre climbing sacs, demonstrating how light and compact modern clothing and equipment is. RAB gear used on the route provided base, insulation and shell clothing as well as endurance shelled sleeping bags.


Going fast and light on committing routes of the up most difficulty is the current cutting edge of high altitude climbing, and this is one of the finest examples of this in the last decade.

Al sent us the following report:

 

"British alpinism continues apace with, another world class first ascent taking place in Peru recently. The SE Face of Jirishanca has finally seen an ascent of it's serious central couloir - a line subject to much international attention recently . British duo Al Powell and Nick Bullock pulled off a major coup in mid June with their new 900m line 'Fear and Loathing', weighing in at a hefty ED3 and Scottish 7++ including several pitches of spectacular climbing amongst huge icicle fringes." This was our second attempt at the face, the first nearly ending in disaster when Nick was struck by an avalanche in the 'couloir of death' in 2002. His ensuing 400 foot fall convinced us to go elsewhere for the rest of the trip! Fortunately this year conditions were far more stable, allowing us to solo the couloir overnight and climb the rest of the face over the next 3 days. To find out what we were up against, check out the 1st ascent pictures - the photos speak for themselves... "


Day 1 - Our morning alarm call...


Same pitch - heading for the 100m icefall


Top pitch of the 100m icefall


Easy ground in sight


Day 2 - Nick leaving our first bivi


Here we go again


Day 3 ...and again


In the bag!

Al Powell used the following combination of RAB clothing during the ascent of 'Fear and Loathing'.

Base Layer: RAB Vapour-rise Smock

Insulation:
RAB Neutrino Endurance Down Jacket

Outer Shell: RAB Latok Suit, a one piece suit in eVent® fabric

Sleeping Bag: RAB Quantum Endurance 400