| 
Fear and Loathing in Los Andes.
Jirishanca
(6094m) SE Face - Cordillera Huayhuash Peru. RAB sponsored climber Al
Powell has succeeded on a major unclimbed line on the spectacular and
dangerous Jirishanca in Peru. After an attempt in 2002 ended in a dramatic
retreat a second expedition in 2003 was successful, at a time when international
interest was focussed on the face. Al has provided us with dramatic photos
from the ascent and an account of the climb itself can be read in Summit
31, the magazine of the BMC, online at www.thebmc.co.uk/services/summit/backissues30on.htm
|
 |
| |
 |
Al
and Nick set off on this multiday, steep and committing ice route
at high altitude with only 35 litre climbing sacs, demonstrating
how light and compact modern clothing and equipment is. RAB gear
used on the route provided base, insulation and shell clothing as
well as endurance shelled sleeping bags.
Going fast and light on committing routes of the up most difficulty
is the current cutting edge of high altitude climbing, and this
is one of the finest examples of this in the last decade.
Al
sent us the following report: |
"British
alpinism continues apace with, another world class first ascent
taking place in Peru recently. The SE Face of Jirishanca has finally
seen an ascent of it's serious central couloir - a line subject
to much international attention recently . British duo Al Powell
and Nick Bullock pulled off a major coup in mid June with their
new 900m line 'Fear and Loathing', weighing in at a hefty ED3 and
Scottish 7++ including several pitches of spectacular climbing amongst
huge icicle fringes." This was our second attempt at the face, the
first nearly ending in disaster when Nick was struck by an avalanche
in the 'couloir of death' in 2002. His ensuing 400 foot fall convinced
us to go elsewhere for the rest of the trip! Fortunately this year
conditions were far more stable, allowing us to solo the couloir
overnight and climb the rest of the face over the next 3 days. To
find out what we were up against, check out the 1st ascent pictures
- the photos speak for themselves... " |

Day
1 - Our morning alarm call...

Same pitch - heading for the 100m icefall

Top pitch of the 100m icefall

Easy ground in sight

Day 2 - Nick leaving our first bivi

Here we go again

Day 3 ...and again

In the bag!
|
 |