Everest North Ridge

In May 2004 Ian and Andy Prentice, John Briggs and Garth Miller made a bold lightweight attempt on the north ridge of Everest. In the final push for the summit bad weather came in seperating the team and creating a high altitude battle for survival as Andy retreated from only 50 vertical meters below the summit. The team used RAB expedition down suits and sleeping bags throughout the expedition.

 
 

Ian Prentice, John Briggs and Garth Miller on the
North Ridge of Everest.

In the days of satellite communication, commercial expeditions and live summit broadcasts it is easy to belittle Everest amidst the media frenzy of speed ascents, oldest, youngest and coldest. However the fact remains that at 8848m there is no escaping the unforgiving cold, jet stream winds and sudden weather changes, and Everest remains an ultimate challenge for human resolve and the gear you choose to wear.

At RAB we have been making 8000m expedition gear for many years, combining durable Pertex® Endurance with the world's finest 96% pure white goose down in sleeping bags, jackets, salopettes, suits, mitts and boots.

When your life depends on it (and it literally will) you must have total confidence in your summit day clothing. Reports this year from both the South West ridge and committing North side noting a line of yellow and black RAB suits speaks volumes of the confidence placed in RAB Expedition gear by aspirant summiteers.

 

At 8200m on Everest’s North Ridge.

“Only 50 vertical meters lay between me and the summit of Everest, the wind speeds were fierce, driving spindrift into my face and mask, the cold was intense and the visibility dropping to zero. My companions had retreated earlier in the day and now, utterly alone on the summit pyramid, I made the agonising decision to turn into the blizzard and descend.
On a night when the fierce conditions brought tragedy to others on the mountain the descent became an epic of holding mind and body together through the steep 2nd step and awkward unprotected traverse below. My Rab down suit proved superb throughout the whole climb, allowing me to escape unscathed from a full blown Everest storm high on the ridge.”


Andy Prentice, Everest North Ridge, May 2004

 

Ian Prentice clipping fixed lines during a storm bound
descent of the North Ridge

Ama Dablam 2003

Andy and Ian Prentice first used RAB gear on their 2003 Everest training climb on Ama Dablam in Nepal.

 Andy and Ian Prentice wearing
Batura jackets on the summit of
Ama Dablam, Nepal